Level 7/8 Graduate Course
Bill Von Novak
billvon@qualcomm.com
7/3/98
1. Review
-Malfunctions review
High speed - total, PC in tow, bag lock, streamer
Low speed - lineover, stuck slider, tension knots,
broken lines, canopy damage
New problems - line twist on smaller canopies - not so easy
to fix
-Emergency procedures review
New problems - horseshoe malfunction, line twists w/high
performance canopies
On rigs other than Telesis, "unmating" Velcro on cutaway
handle before you pull it is important.
Differences between one-handed procedures and two-handed
procedure:
One-hand-per-handle can be faster if you're low, but
will take longer than two-hand-per-handle if you have
to "help" with your right hand due to a hard cutaway.
Also, unmating velcro on reserve handle can result in a
floating ripcord handle if you later have to use two
hands.
Do I cut away from a total mal?
Generally if you can't find the handle or can't get it
out just go for reserve.
If anything at all is out (PC, bag, ripcord) go for
cutaway first.
If riser covers are in bad shape, unnecessary cutaway
can make the risers release and flop over the reserve
container - not good.
-Priorities (still the same) Get a canopy over your head
before you hit the ground no matter what - unstable pulls and
canopy collisions are bad, but bounces are worse.
-Clearing airspace above you before the pull - wave offs
2. Beginning RW stuff
-Breakoff is important to get clear of other people esp. with a
high performance canopy
Flat track - don't dive down - good track is important (demo
good body position)
Waveoff and look above you
On bigger dives break higher
-Exits
Floating - how to get on the floater bar, what not to grab
on the airplane, camera perches
Grips - be very careful of other people's handles when
taking grips!
(demo chest strap, lateral strap, lift web grips)
Gear - protect your own handles!
Door - don't get slammed against the edge of the door and
don't slide your rig along the door
- don't 'cut the corner' on exit and slam someone else
against the edge of the door
Body position on exit - get shoulder up
Stay flying throughout the exit - don't "exit then get
stable"
-Altitudes - start breakoff at 6000 feet, work your way down.
min. pull alt for students is 3000, so min breakoff is 4000.
you have to tell other jumpers on the load you're opening
higher.
Pull altitudes - 3000 student, 2500 A/B, 2000 C/D - 2000
isn't always a good idea even for a skygod.
-Good drills to do
Solos for tracking, turns etc.
Show different types of turns - body, shoulder, arm/leg,
"skydive U"
2-way with a coach - who to jump with and who not to
Work up to 3-way and 4-way slowly
Higher breakoffs for bigger formations
-Hand-deploy with an AFF JM
-Don't let anyone rush you!
-Recurrency requirements
3. Spotting
-Why spotting is important
Landing out is bad, landing in Mexico is worse
-Group separation depends on aircraft speed, upper and lower winds
and time between exits - allow more time when you're headed
into a strong wind or on a slow plane.
Example: King air - 6 seconds no wind, 10 seconds w/headwind.
Porter - 10 seconds no wind, 16 seconds with a headwind
Helicopter almost hovering - wait long time between groups
Tracking practice - for solos or 2-ways, track away from line
of flight
-When should I get out?
Usually big groups go first, smaller groups next, solos next,
then AFF's, then tandems
Do not trust vertical separation unless >2000 feet. Canopies
snivel for >1000 feet, altimeters are +/- 500 feet, jumpers
are even less accurate.
JM's have final say if there are students in the plane
Freestylists can get out first or last of the experienced
jumpers. Many jumpers enjoy arguing about this.
-First: They fall faster and open much sooner, and start flying
back sooner. They may get underneath you, since they'll be
flying back under you.
-Last: If they wait 10 seconds or so, they'll open up beneath
the last group at about the same time. Horizontal sep. is
important - so wait recommended time.
-Need more separation for big ways since they will track farther
-How do I check the spot? Techniques for looking straight down
-How far is too far? How to judge distance to target, account for
winds
-How do I spot? How to pick a line, steer the plane, and pick the
cut and exit points. Wind reports and previous spots. How to
consider the entire load when picking the exit point.
What throw is, how upper and lower winds can affect spot.
-What if I screw up? It happens, no big deal w/experienced
people, can be a problem with students - let JM's spot if
students are on board.
-Different kinds of planes + spotting techniques - Skyvan,
cessnas, GPS spots, Hand signals. How it works at Perris,
Quincy, etc.
-Punching clouds - illegal, of course - 500/1000/2000 foot rule
problems with terrain (3000 ft mountain can be under that
cloud) air traffic and other canopy traffic, but sometimes it
happens.
Under canopy, spiral down through clouds, be prepared to
turn/flare at any time.
-Spotting near clouds - avoid them - try not to hose the last
group.
4. Equipment selection
-Jumpsuit - should probably be your first purchase. Pick one
for your weight - a 210 LB 5'8" guy should get a big
polycotton, that 120 LB 5'9" woman needs a tight nylon suit.
Mention wings/dive rite for heavy jumpers.
-Weight vests - can help light women fly, but not really
necessary at first. Learn to fly without them for your first
20 jumps or so.
-Main canopy - work down from the manta. A good progression
for a 160 LB guy might be a Raven II (218 sq. ft) a PD190
then a Sabre 150, after a hundred jumps or so. Depends on
skill level and currency. See section on high-performance
canopy flight.
-Container - make sure it has the size range to hold your 'big'
canopies and the eventual smaller one - used rig might be a
good choice here. Square reserve is a very good idea. Make
sure rig is spec'd for a square reserve/AAD/RSL if you want
them - not all are.
-Reserves - follow mfrs. recommendations for loading. tempos
pack pretty small. Mention reserve repack cycle.
-Deployment methods -
ROL - 'conventional' location, works OK, leaves bridle
exposed.
BOC - more protected, very popular. can't see the handle
but usually not a problem.
pullout - very clean system but has higher fatality rate.
ripcord - not too common, but is probably the safest
system.
-Collapsible pilot chutes - why they help - bungee vs. kill
line
-AAD's - get a Cypres if you can afford it. Your first hundred
jumps or so are a higher danger area. Also how to
operate and maintain a Cypres. (500 jumps/2 years
replace batteries, watch battery voltage)
-Altimeters - Avoid alti V's. Most altimasters are good.
Digitudes are great. Dytters can be nice but you can grow to
depend on them - and when they fail you have no way of
knowing. Many people use two alti's. Chest alti so others
can see.
-Helmets - Frap hats give minimal protection, mainly protect
you from cuts and bumps on exit. Protecs are good. Factory
divers (and the like) are excellent helmets but watch for
fogging problem.
5. Moving on
-Different aircraft - tailgate (CASA and skyvan), helicopter,
otters, DC-3's - talk about exit techniques, problems, safety
concerns. (skyvan stall problems for example.)
-Bailouts - what altitude to use which canopy (below 1000
probably reserve) who to listen to. Take charge if no one
else is, listen to pilot, watch weight distribution on bailout
-Different types of DZ's
USPA or not - something to consider
Tight landings - Lebanon, ME and the Ranch in NY -
really tight landing areas, might not be a good place
for a Stiletto 97
Winds - summer at Perris (dust devils)
Unusual hazards - Dillingham field in Hawaii, for
example
-High traffic DZ's
Always turn right to avoid collision
Use rear riser right after opening if necessary - works
even as canopy is opening
Low guy has right of way
Don't get set on one landing area - pick another one if
it's crowded
How to tell if you're going to make it back
Picking a good landing area if you have to land out
Determining landing direction when wind is coming from
all over
Warnings about pulling high - the next load may
freefall into you
Warn people if you're pulling above 3000 (at Quincy for
example)
-Boogie dangers
Boogies involve large groups of lower-experienced jumpers
using unfamiliar planes and sometimes demoing unfamiliar
equipment. Can be bad.
-Watch for spastic canopy control from others when landing
-Don't try to land in the highest traffic areas
-Beware the low-timer big ways
-Drunk/drugged up skydivers - unfortunately, can happen -
watch for them
-Organizers are often very helpful - don't be afraid to ask
questions and say no.
(explain how organized dives work.)
-Dealing with other jumpers
Pin checks - how to check different rigs (can't check
reserve pins on a Racer or a Reflex for example) -
how to pin check a pullout. Checking kill lines and
cypreses.
Equipment inspection - keep your eyes open but don't
mess w/other people's rigs unless they ask.
Tandems - always check with TM before swooping or
exiting after. Vector tandems require AFF rating to
swoop.
AFF's - don't mess with students gear, avoid in the
air.
How to spot the SkyGods(TM) and avoid them
-Water landings
Not a big deal if you're prepared.
Equipment - flotation gear, markers
Before landing take off chest strap, loosen leg straps
Land into the wind, dive out of the harness, swim away
Reserve can float for a little while
Get repack/inspection after any water landing
-Night jumps
Equipment - light visible for 3 miles, marker light for RW
Chem lights are a joke for the main light. Strobes are
cheap and highly visible. ($20 at Radio Shack.)
No strobes in plane, avoid looking at bright lights
Big canopy = more reaction time, since it's slower. Good
especially when you can't see.
Full moon helps. Beware of 'seeing your shadow' and
freaking out on landing. (Most common night jump injury!)
Lots of space between groups, watch for other people in the
air.
Whistles/shouting helps find other people in the air.
-New terms
Floating - front float, rear float, dive float, and
superfloat
Diving and swooping
Funnels, zoo loads
Beer rules
==================================================
Packing Notes
1. Packing blah blah blah pro or flat
emphasize how each step helps insure clean openings
2. Functions of parts of parachute and how packing affects them
1. Slider - forward and up means slower openings
2. Stows - line dump is bad, so keep em tight
3. Lines - keep twists out of brake lines, always keep tension
4. Brake lines should always stay in the back during entire pack
job (lineover - most common propack mal)
5. Stabilizers clear and bridle free near grommet to prevent
damage
6. What's a bad hole and what's acceptable
7. How to inspect for wear on lines and fabric
3. Gear inspection - what to look for and how serious it is
-Worn velcro and spandex - not real serious but can cause
premature openings
-Closing loops - should not be frayed, finger trap should be
tight
-Popped stitching in harness - bad bad!
-Twisted brake lines
-Worn lines - check at links
-Sharp edges on slider grommets
-Reconnecting a canopy - always check for reversed risers!
-Holes and popping seams on main canopy - little holes are
usually OK
-Toggles - if one comes off on a Stiletto it can be really bad
========================================================
Canopy Training Stuff
A. Hand deploy transition
1. Review horseshoe mals, PC-in-tow
2. Retrain on reserve procedures
3. Practice w/real hand deploy
B. Next steps
1. Deployment systems (BOC, ROL, Pullout) pros and cons
2. Kill line/bungee/CRW collapsible pilot chutes
Getting a collapsible is like going down a canopy size
in terms of landing performance - definitely worth it
3. First canopy choice
Explain loading factors:
-Extremely low loadings (<.7) have some problems with
penetration, flare but are forgiving - good for
accuracy
-Mid-range loadings (.8 - 1.2) give good penetration,
good flare, but sacrifice some forgiveness and
sinkability
-High loadings require lots of care - higher speed
(needs faster reactions), longer runway for landing,
more situations require a cutaway (line twist or
broken lines), need more separation on opening,
are absolutely unforgiving.
-F111 wearout, ZP advantages/disadvantages (long life,
packing, etc.)
-Accuracy/CRW/RW/surfing/demo canopies
-7 cell vs. 9 cell - 7 cell more stable in deep brakes,
9 cell better glide and flare (usually)
4. New procedures
- Rear riser turns right after opening for collision avoidance
(maybe front riser - depends on canopy)
- Mals - some canopies can be landed with rear riser, some not
- Line twist is now more serious esp. with high loadings
- Turbulent air (how to keep canopy inflated in bumpy air)
- Tight landing areas - sinking it may be a problem
- Trees, power lines etc. Canopy is faster now so they're
more of a problem. Less time to react, more energy when
you hit.
-Glide tricks - get slider down, spread rear risers apart,
loosen chest strap
Use some brake if you have a tailwind
Perhaps use front risers if headwind - experiment
Land out if not back to DZ at some safe height(500'?)
5. How to deal with lots of people in the air (boogies, otter
DZ's)
- exit spacing, tracking, pulling at the correct altitude
(sometimes too high is bad too)
- night jumps - strobes (chem lites are a joke), whistles,
yelling. (might be a good time to pull out that old cruislite)
C. High Performance Landings
1. Advanced canopy dynamics (Jerry Sobieski's paper handed out
here)
-Normal turns (4-6" control range in full flight, canopy
may not stop turning after brakes are released to full
flight)
-Harness turns (weight shift)
-Static vs. Dynamic stalls (try a hard turn then a
flare up high)
-Tricks to judge height
-Common problems at this stage:
-Turn just before landing - usually due to reaching
out w/hand - habit from mantas
-Old flare-high habit - HP's should flare at 3-5
feet, not 15
-No more sinking mushy approaches
-Two-stage flare (multi-stage flare) from normal flight
-Front riser straight-in landings
-'Jennifer' landings (flare at 50 feet, let canopy dive
and recover - a hook without the turn) good for
tight areas
-Front riser turns to landing
-Toggle turns to landing (not the best idea)
2. High loading cautions
-Jerry Sobieski's table on canopy loading (remember
weight vests and winter fat when picking a canopy)
-'Ideal' canopy - what loading gives you best flare,
best glide etc.
-Cutaway decisions - may be required over bad terrain or
if line twist occurs
-Caution on rear riser turns after opening (it turns
fast!)
-You may not be able to control canopy with even one
broken line
-Rear riser flares are much more tricky
(reserve may be necessary for a broken brake line)
-If you bury a toggle you may give yourself a mal (line
twist)
-Body position more important on opening
-Big ways - on heading openings important, esp. with
higher canopy speed
3. Practice
-Practice flat turns - use both brakes to turn canopy fast and
flat. Get in flat turn habit, so a low panic turn isn't
fatal.
-Practice flare turns - can turn canopy even during flare to
point it back into the wind if you screw up.
-Practice grabbing rear risers on every jump to prepare for
collision avoidance. Also practice rear riser turns.
-Practice rear riser flares, see if rear riser landing is
possible.
D. HP Canopy choices
"You don't need a small canopy to get good landings!!" - John Leblanc
1. some common ZP canopies, from forgiving to unforgiving:
-Triathalon - great 1st ZP canopy
-Turbo-ZX
-Silhouette - half ZP, half F111 like Turbo
-Monarch - Similar to Sabre, better glide, a bit slower
-Sabre - Stable, good all-around canopy
-Spectre - 7 cell HP elliptical
-Nova - Great landings, but unstable in even light turb.
-Batwing - opening problems, fast and responsive
-Jedei - fast, sensitive canopy - airlocks
-Icarus - generally only used at insane loadings
-Stiletto - ultra sensitive, great canopy, but needs
much attention - seems to get bad line twists a lot
2. Reserve - don't get that MR 120 just to fit in a small rig!
esp. since you may need it more often jumping a tiny ZP.
E Packing tips for HP canopies
1. Depends on mfr, RTFM
2. Propack warnings:
- keep lines together at tail to prevent lineovers
- keep control of lower bundle at all times (that's where
lines and slider are)
3. Sabres - tend to open hard - slider position very important
4. Stilettos - tend to snivel, open off heading - keep nose open
and symmetric, don't overwrap tail
5. Batwing - tend to open strangely. Mention George G and his
psycho pack - seems to tame it.
======================================================
WATER TRAINING
How to not land in the water
-Check the spot! (mention how to do that - look straight down,
account for wind drift)
-Open high if necessary, unless winds are really high
-Tricks you can use to judge where you will land
(look for the one spot that's not rising or going underneath
you - that's your landing point)
-Don't try to make it across a body of water if you're not sure
you'll make it!
-Sometimes going to 1/4 brakes helps if LZ is downwind
-Sometimes front risers help if LZ is upwind
Equipment required
-Flotation gear - that little wrist-mount inflatable thing is
legal but it's way small - bigger PFD's are a good idea
-Required if within 1 mile of water
-Waterproof strobe at sunset or night, so boat can find you
Unintentional water landings
-Loosen leg straps
-Remove chest strap (you won't fall out)
-Go to 1/2 brakes at 50 feet - flare is _impossible_ to judge
over water
-Prepare to PLF - might be over a submerged stump or something
-NEVER cut away above the water! many fatalities from this -
you just can't judge height
-If winds are high, cut away as soon as your feet get wet
-Pull your arms out of harness, dive forward, swim away from
harness
-Reserve can float for a while
-If you land into the wind, canopy will fall behind you - no
problem
-If you land downwind, canopy can collapse on top of you
stick your hand up to create air space
thrash around as little as possible - you'll get all tangled
"walk" your hands out from under canopy
you can breathe through F111 but not zero-P
-Only inflate PFD once clear of lines
-Strobe or whistle can help you get picked up
-Don't try to save your gear - save yourself first - you're
probably going to lose your main if it's deep water so just
deal with it (mains don't float for too long)
-You'll probably damage your altimeter/dytter/cypres - get them
checked out
-Open your reserve after you get out of the water, or you're
risking mold and mildew
-ALWAYS get a reserve repack/inspection after a water landing
Intentional water landings
-Can be fun, and is great practice
(for example, water landings at bridge day are the norm -
safer than the rocky shore)
-Plan on landing close to shore - better height perception,
easier swim back
-Old gear/round is fine - good time to try a round
-Remove cypres (if equipped)
-Use cheapo altimeter, put it in a plastic bag
-Bring PFD!
-Don't use factory diver! (or full face)
-Have lifeguards/good swimmers nearby